The Ultimate Guide to Choosing Interior Walls for Your Campervan

From Metal to Cosy

Installing Campervan Interior Walls

Finally, you’ve navigated through the jungle of insulation, now it's time to choose the interior walls.

What style do you like?

Natural elements or clean, bright colors?

Are you looking for a particular feel when you step into your new home?

Regardless, we’ll help you and go through the pros and cons together.

Choosing the Right Wall Material for Your Campervan Conversion

The best time to put up the walls in your campervan is right after you’ve installed insulation, subflooring, and pre-installed electrical and water systems. It’s important to at least have the walls cut out and test-fitted before you install any larger modules, as it can be challenging to shape and fit the walls in small spaces once the rest of the interior is in place. Final finishes on the walls can be added later, but they should be installed before any other larger items are mounted in the space.

There are mainly three categories of materials for campervan interior walls:

• Wood panels

• Plywood

• Textile
  

With the right choice of interior walls, you can easily customize your campervan to match your personal style and create a space where you feel at home, whether you prefer classic, modern, or something in between.

Let's take a closer look at these options:

Wood Panelling for Campervans: Add Style and Functionality

When it comes to giving your campervan that perfect homely feel, the choice of panels is a crucial factor. There are many different types of panels and ways to mount them, and the right choice can truly transform your small space. The profile and texture of the panel affect not only the appearance but also how large or small the space feels. Here are some tips on using panels to create the atmosphere you want in your campervan.

Vertical or Horizontal – Change the Feel of the Room

Did you know that the choice between vertical or horizontal panels can affect how the room feels in your van? If you have a narrow space, vertical panels can create an illusion of height, making it feel more spacious and airy. On the other hand, if you want the room to feel longer or wider, horizontal panels are an excellent option. It's a simple trick that can make a big difference, especially when working with small spaces like a van.

Beadboard – The Traditional Favorite

Want to create a more modern feel in your van? Then smooth tongue and groove might be for you! This panel type has a narrower groove, usually around 2 mm, and gives a sleek and minimalist expression. Perfect for those who want a light and open feeling without compromising on warmth and coziness.

Smooth – For a Modern and Welcoming Feel

Want to create a more modern feel in your van? Then smooth tongue and groove might be for you! This panel type has a narrower groove, usually around 2 mm, and gives a sleek and minimalist expression. Perfect for those who want a light and open feeling without compromising on warmth and coziness.

Wide Groove – A Classic Look

For those who love the classic look, panels with a wider groove (about 10 mm) are a stylish choice. The wide tongue and groove give a timeless, elegant appearance and work just as well in a campervan as in a summer cottage. Its robust and familiar design creates a cozy and homely feel, which can be just what’s needed to make your van a true gem on wheels.

How to Attach Wall Panels in Your Campervan:
A Step-by-Step Guide

Once you’ve chosen the panel that fits your style and your campervan’s character, the next step is to mount it. Attaching the panel correctly is not only important for achieving a neat result, it also ensures that your panel stays stable and durable over time, despite changing temperatures and vibrations when you’re on the road.

With these steps in mind, you can easily mount your panels and give your campervan the personal touch you’ve always dreamed of.

1. Use Furring Strips

   To ensure that the panel is properly attached to the walls of your campervan, you need to install furring strips. These narrow wooden strips are mounted along the wall ribs and ceiling, creating a stable foundation for attaching the panels. By using furring strips, you avoid screwing directly into the van’s metal frame, which also acts as a small thermal break to reduce heat loss.

2. Screws or Finishing Nails – What Works Best?

   When it comes to attaching the panels themselves, you can choose between screws or finishing nails, depending on the finish you want. Screws provide a strong and stable attachment but can be more visible if not concealed. Finishing nails are more discreet and blend in nicely with the panel, especially if you’re using beadboard or smooth tongue and groove. You can use a nail gun for an even and neat result.

3. Start from the Bottom and Work Upwards

   When mounting panels, especially if you’re using vertical or horizontal panels like beadboard, it’s recommended to start from the bottom and work your way up. This ensures that each panel is supported by the one below it, and it’s easier to keep the panels aligned. If you’re working with horizontal panels, you can also start from one side and work your way to the other for a cohesive look.

4. Don’t Forget Space for Expansion

   Wood moves over time, especially in a campervan that’s exposed to different temperatures and humidity levels. Therefore, it’s important to leave a small expansion space (about 2-3 mm) between the panels and the outer walls, so that the wood can expand and contract without causing cracks or deformations.

Plywood Walls for Campervans: Durable and Affordable Choice

Plywood is likely the most common choice. It's cheaper than paneling, relatively easy to work with if you choose a thinner variant, comes in different thicknesses, and provides a flat surface – which some people wallpaper for a nicer appearance! Additionally, some have used cork, wallpaper, or carpet on the walls. This, of course, requires a smooth and relatively flat surface.

Keep in mind that sheet material can be cheaper per square meter, but it also produces a lot of waste, which you don't get with wood paneling. So, in the end, it's hard to say what is cheapest.

For our first van, we settled on inner paneling from Moelven – we decided quite early that we wanted wood paneling – mostly because it looks nice and that was the feeling we were going for. Inner paneling is usually 12 mm thick, expensive, and weighs quite a bit. The advantages? The appearance and the ease of attaching things to the walls. However, in the garage section under the bed, behind the seats, and the kitchen counter, we put back the old board that was in the vehicle to save money.

You can buy untreated, primed, or painted panels. Untreated is the cheapest – but then you have to buy paint and paint it yourself, which we did. Start by applying a knot sealer or use a good primer if you are using light paint; it’s not nice when the knots in the wood start to yellow and form large spots! The first time we used a cheaper knot sealer from Biltema, it worked okay despite several layers. We then chose a cheaper white interior paint from Bauhaus (which worked well!) and painted two layers before we put up the panel, and one layer after.

Essential Tips for Installing Panels and Plywood in Your Campervan

Always paint before you put up the panel – the wood will always move a bit depending on the humidity, and if you paint the panel after you put it up, you will get ugly, unpainted areas between the wood panels after a while! Also, keep in mind that cheaper paint is often cheaper for a reason; it can be more runny and have fewer color pigments. This often means more layers and more work, so we now always avoid the cheapest brand. Beckers is now a favorite!

For the second van, we chose 7 mm plywood instead, partly for the weight but mostly because we wanted plywood on the doors – wood paneling on the doors weighs a lot and wears heavily on the door hinges. The advantage is that it’s a bit lighter; the disadvantage is that it may not be as cozy or easy to attach things to the walls. In the garage and behind the kitchen cabinets, we reused the plastic board that came with the vehicle. Keep in mind that there are different types of plywood that are more or less thick, sanded, easy to work with, etc., so choose accordingly!

Different Types of Plywood:

• Construction Plywood: Strong and durable, perfect for building projects where durability is important.

• Interior Plywood: Often used for furniture and interiors, with a smoother surface and finer veneer.

• Marine Plywood: Made to withstand moisture, ideal for wet areas or humid environments.

Grading of Plywood

• BB/BB: High quality with few defects, suitable for visible surfaces.

• C/D: More budget-friendly, often used where the finish is not as important.

• WBP (Water Boil Proof): A grading that means the plywood has been glued with water-resistant adhesive, increasing durability.

Installing Plywood in the Campervan

To attach plywood sheets to the walls of your campervan, it’s recommended to use plusnuts and bolts. This method is ideal as it creates a strong and stable installation that can handle the vibrations from driving. Start by cutting the plywood according to templates adapted to the walls. Then drill holes in the chassis, attach plusnuts, and use bolts to hold the sheets in place.

Unlike panels, plywood doesn’t need as much support from furring strips, giving you more space in the campervan. This method also makes it easy to remove and adjust the sheets if needed.

Treatment of Plywood

After installation, you can choose to treat the plywood to maximize its lifespan and appearance. It is important to protect the material from moisture, wear, and weather effects. Use appropriate surface treatments such as wood oil, varnish, or paint, depending on the application and the type of plywood selected.

Oil: A natural treatment that enhances the wood grain and provides a water-resistant surface.

Painting: Paint the plywood to achieve a colorful or neutral surface that matches the rest of your campervan.

Veneer: By applying wood veneer, you can give the plywood a luxurious and exclusive appearance, similar to more expensive wood types.

With these options, you can customize your campervan and create the look and feel that suits you! Want to read more about treating different types of wood? Click Here

Choosing Plywood: Which Wood Type is Best?

Plywood can be made from different types of wood, mainly birch (hardwood) and spruce (softwood), each with unique properties and advantages depending on the application.

Birch Plywood

Birch is a hardwood known for its smooth, light appearance and higher density. This makes birch plywood suitable for projects where aesthetics play an important role, such as interior design, furniture, and concrete formwork.

The material offers excellent strength and rigidity, making it ideal for applications where the plywood is subjected to heavy loads, such as trailer floors. However, birch is more sensitive to moisture changes due to its higher density, which means it may require extra protection and treatment.

Spruce Plywood

Spruce is a softwood that offers a lighter but still strong structure, making it a popular choice for load-bearing construction structures such as floors, walls, and roofs.

Spruce plywood is less rigid than birch, which means it can bend slightly under heavy loads without breaking. Its closed wood structure makes it more durable against moisture and various conditions, contributing to long-lasting life in construction projects.

Quality and Grading of Plywood

Plywood is classified according to quality and appearance to meet different needs and standards, both nationally and internationally. In Europe, plywood is commonly marked according to ISO standards and European standards, with surface quality indicated by class designations such as B, BB, and X. According to American regulations, designations like A, B, C, and D are used, with a "P" indicating that the surface has been patched to be smooth.

For construction and building purposes, it's important to choose the right quality and thickness based on the intended function of the plywood. Plywood for load-bearing structures must be CE marked according to the Swedish Building Regulations (BBR), where the marking indicates the allowable strength values. Additionally, plywood should be marked with its nominal thickness, wood type, and product standard, such as SS-EN 636, to ensure it meets specific requirements for both indoor and outdoor use.

Tips for Choosing Plywood for Different Projects

• Birch Plywood: Choose for projects that require a smooth and visually appealing surface, such as interior details and furniture.

• Spruce Plywood: Use for load-bearing structures like floors, roofs, and walls, where durability and lightness are important factors.

• Quality: For high-quality and visible surfaces, choose plywood with grade B or BB. For less critical surfaces, a lower grade like X can be an economical choice.

We thought a lot about whether we should put panels/plywood on all the walls first before building anything else in the van. It would have been easier, but it would have cost significantly more money, and we would have lost quite a bit of space and weight.

So we started by fixing the frames for seats, cabinets, bed, and kitchen counter before we began putting the panels around. The same principle applied for the second van, the space you save is well worth it!

After the frames were installed, we started by mounting all the cables first, then put up the panel up to the spot where we would have lighting. We then used a hole saw to drill in the panel where we would have the spotlights and connected them before we continued with the ceiling.**

Cost Analysis of Panel Options for Campervan

Choosing the right material for the interior walls of your campervan affects both aesthetics, functionality, and your budget. Here is an overview of the costs of different panel materials based on material type, thickness, and installation time.

Summary of Material Choices

• Tongue and Groove Wood Paneling: Mid-range price and more labor-intensive, but gives a warm and cozy impression.

• Plywood: Economical and quick to install, often a choice for budget builds.

• Marine Plywood: A durable and waterproof option, perfect for humid areas like bathrooms or kitchens.

• Composite Panels: Lightweight and modern, but more expensive than traditional materials.

• Recycled Wood: Budget-friendly but installation can be challenging due to varying quality.

How to Save Weight in Your Campervan

Weight is often a big factor when converting a van. Here are some tips for reducing weight when cladding the interior of your campervan:

Tip 1: First and foremost, avoid heavy woods! This means materials like pallet wood, hardwood, and glued wood should be avoided.

Tip 2: Use only as thick material as needed, but not thicker. 8 mm tongue and groove paneling or 3-layer plywood is sufficient.

Tip 3: Do not install wall panels where they won't be visible. For example, you can skip cladding the wall behind the kitchen sink or inside storage cabinets.

Cladding Walls with Fabric Carpet

Before you start working on cladding the walls of your campervan, it might be worth considering installing a campervan carpet (also called car carpet). This type of thin, stretchy carpet is often used in vehicles and gives a neat and clean appearance to exposed metal surfaces or other areas that panels won't cover.

Installation: The campervan carpet is attached with spray adhesive. Once you have attached the carpet, you can use a rubber squeegee to remove any air bubbles. Don't forget to wear gloves and a mask when applying the adhesive.

Tip: Be careful when cutting the carpet – an uneven result will be clearly visible when finished, so measure carefully and cut correctly from the start!

Installing Campervan Wall Panels

Before installing the wall panels, it is important that you have insulated the campervan. The panels are attached to wooden battens that are mounted vertically along the walls. These battens are usually divided into three levels: lower, middle, and upper parts, due to the curved shape of the vehicle.

Securing the Battens: The placement of the battens is ensured by screwing them into the van's metal structure with self-drilling or self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws require a pre-drilled hole but often provide a more stable mounting.

Moisture Control and Vapor Barrier

Moisture management is crucial to avoid mold and rot in the campervan, especially in tight spaces where condensation easily forms. A vapor barrier between the insulation and the panels helps protect against moisture accumulation.

Condensation Risks: Condensation occurs when warm, moist air meets cold surfaces, such as the van's walls. To manage this, you should install a vapor barrier, such as 6 mil polyethylene plastic or Reflectix, over the insulation.

Moisture Control and Vapor Barrier

Once the walls are clad, it's time to clad the roof. Start by drilling holes in the van's metal structural beams to attach the wooden battens. To keep the panels in place, screw them into the battens, and use a hole saw to create openings for spotlights or other electrical installations.

When it comes to door panels, the process differs slightly. Here, the panels are screwed directly into the van's metal structure with self-drilling or self-tapping screws.

Treatment of Panels

Once all the panels are in place, the next step is to treat them to protect against wear and moisture. The most common treatment is using Danish Oil or Tung Oil to enhance the wood's natural appearance and provide long-lasting protection.

Depending on the wood type and application, it's important to use the right type of oil. For example, do not use the same Tung Oil on cutting boards, not even a kitchen countertop. There, it's better to use beeswax and a mineral oil.

Want to learn more about surface treatments for wood? Read more here

Finally, it's time for the next exciting step – Batteries and Electrical Knowledge

Next Chapter

Maybe you want to learn more about how to treat wood and other materials? Which oil is really best for your purpose?