Which Heater Is Best for Your Campervan?
In this guide, we compare the most common campervan heating options and help you make a confident choice. You’ll learn how to install a campervan diesel heater safely, how to choose 2kW vs 5kW, what to expect from both diesel heater power consumption (12V) and diesel heater fuel consumption, and how to avoid the classic winter issues like damp air and condensation.
And if you’re ready to go all-in with hot water at the tap: the second half of this guide covers the most common ways to get hot water in a DIY campervan from simple everyday “nice-to-have” solutions to proper built-in systems.
Do You Really Need Heating in a Campervan?
Hot water is a luxury. Heating your living space is usually more of a necessity especially in autumn, winter, and early spring.
Good insulation makes a massive difference, but a van is still basically a big metal box. If it’s 0°C outside, the temperature drops fast, even if you manage to get it up to 18°C for a while. Sure, you can get by with a blanket and a beanie sometimes. But if you want your camper to feel genuinely comfortable, you need a heat source that can keep up with the heat loss.
Heaters are usually rated in kW (kilowatts) that’s how much heat they can deliver. It’s the main number we use to compare options and pick the right size.
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Campervan Diesel Heater
Diesel heaters are one of the most popular solutions across Europe and it’s easy to see why. They’re efficient, they produce a nice dry heat, and they work brilliantly off-grid.
How does a diesel heater work?
A diesel heater burns diesel fuel to heat a heat exchanger. A fan pulls in air, warms it as it passes the heat exchanger, and blows that warm air into your living space.
The combustion side is separate: it pulls in fresh air through an intake and sends exhaust gases out through a dedicated diesel heater exhaust pipe/hose that exits underneath the van.
A key detail here is the dry heat. Combustion produces by-products (including water vapour), and those must be vented outside. Heaters that don’t properly vent exhaust can add a lot of moisture to the cabin leading to condensation and damp surfaces surprisingly fast.
Choosing the Right Size: 2kW vs 5kW Diesel Heater
Here’s a simple rule of thumb that usually holds up well:
- 2kW often suits small to mid-sized vans, especially with decent insulation.
- 4–5kW is usually better for larger vans, high roofs, poorer insulation or if you plan to do a lot of winter travel.
The nice thing is that you can adjust output from the control panel. Many models include a timer, and some include a thermostat making overnight heating much more comfortable.
One thing we’ve personally learned after several builds: it’s often smarter to choose a heater that can run steadily and “cleanly” rather than one that’s always forced to idle on the lowest setting. Running very low for long periods can increase the risk of soot and carbon build-up.effekt. För mycket låg drift under lång tid kan öka risken för sot och koks.
Electrical Use (12V): Diesel Heater Power Consumption
Diesel heaters need 12V power for the fuel pump, fan, and control unit.
Typical figures:
- Smaller models: often around 30W while running
- Larger models: often around 60W while running
Startup is a different story. The glow plug needs to heat up, so the current draw can spike significantly expect roughly 8–12A briefly.
That’s why cable sizing and voltage drop are such common causes of startup issues (classic diesel heater wiring problems).
Fuel Consumption: What to Expect in Real Life
“5kW vs 8kW” in practice
If you buy a cheap “8kW” diesel heater and notice it burns about the same fuel as a 5kW unit, it’s probably limited.
A true 8kW heater would typically need to consume roughly 0.8 L/h at full output. Many “8kW” budget models are effectively capped around 0.5–0.6 L/h, which can physically only generate around 5kW of heat.
To get more power, you simply need a larger combustion chamber and proportionally more air and fuel.
Heat output
An “8kW” unit might still have a slightly higher max fan speed and higher peak outlet temperature than a 5kW, while fuel burn per kWh of heat can be fairly similar.
Bottom line
You rarely gain anything by choosing a cheap “8kW” over a 5kW in terms of consumption. In practice, many of them burn the same amount of diesel.
Here are some rough guide figures for diesel heater fuel consumption:
- Low output (1–2kW): approx. 0.1–0.15 L/hour
- Medium output (3–4kW): approx. 0.2–0.3 L/hour
- Max output (5–8kW): approx. 0.4–0.6 L/hour
How long will a 10L tank last?
It depends on temperature, insulation, and how hard you run it. As a general rule, you can often run a diesel heater for around:
Diesel Heater Safety
A correctly installed diesel heater is generally a safe solution because exhaust gases are vented outside. But safety comes down to the details.
Here’s a quick checklist we consider non-negotiable:
Route the fuel line safely try to avoid rubbing/chafing and use the correct clamps
- Install a carbon monoxide alarm in your campervan (CO alarm)
- Install a smoke alarm
- Make sure the exhaust hose and all passthroughs are sealed and correctly fitted
- Keep the exhaust away from anything combustible, and use heat shielding where needed
- Route the fuel line safely, avoid rubbing/chafing and use the correct clamps
If you’re doing a DIY campervan install: it can be a smart move to have a van installer or workshop do a quick check afterwards. It’s often a small cost that prevents expensive mistakes.
Pros and cons of diesel heaters
Pros
Diesel is easy to find across Europe, you can refuel almost anywhere.
Cons
Noise. Some heaters can be a bit loud, especially outside the van. The fuel pump “ticking” is the classic complaint, but it can often be reduced with better mounting and vibration damping.
Premium vs Budget: Eberspächer/Webasto vs Chinese Diesel Heater (CDH)
You’ve got the premium brands like Webasto and Eberspächer, a solid mid-range tier like Autoterm, and then a huge number of budget units often referred to as Chinese diesel heater (CDH).
The tricky part is putting exact numbers on reliability. Plenty of people run cheaper heaters for years with no issues. But plenty of others end up troubleshooting and replacing parts themselves, often with minimal support.
A sensible way to think about it is this: a heater is a box that burns fuel inside your vehicle. If you want peace of mind, especially if you travel with family, warranty and support can be worth a lot.
Altitude: Do You Need an Altitude Kit?
If you plan to drive in the mountains or spend time at higher elevations, you may need altitude adjustment. Without it, combustion can run “off” as air gets thinner, which can cause soot build-up and the heater coking up.
Some models include built-in adjustment, others require an altitude kit.
Installing a Diesel Heater: Step-by-Step (DIY)
Installing a diesel heater in your DIY campervan is totally doable, but it’s not a “one hour and done” job. Many people pay a workshop to do it, but if you want to DIY it yourself, careful planning gets you most of the way there.
A typical diesel heater installation looks like this:
- Choose fuel supply: tap into the vehicle tank or use a separate tank
- Mount the fuel pump and run the fuel line (diesel heater fuel line installation)
- Mount the heater (usually requires drilling through the floor for fuel, intake, and exhaust)
- Wire power from the battery with the correct cable size and a fuse (diesel heater wiring)
- Install the control panel and route signal/power cables
- Run warm air ducting and plan vents so heat goes where you actually want it
- Install a CO alarm and do a proper final safety check
Reducing fuel pump ticking noise
That ticking sound is common, but you can often dampen it with better mounting and vibration isolation. If you want to reduce diesel heater ticking pump noise, it usually helps to:
- Avoid mounting it directly to large sheet metal surfaces (they act like a speaker)
- Mount the pump at the correct angle according to the manual
- Use rubber mounts or vibration dampers
Campervan Gas Heater (LPG)
Gas heaters work almost the same way as diesel heaters, but they burn LPG instead. If you already have gas onboard for cooking, it can be logical to use the same fuel for heating.
In the UK, LPG has historically been harder to find in some areas, while in much of Europe it’s often easier. If you travel internationally, LPG adapters can be a good idea.
Safety-wise, gas systems are more sensitive to leaks. Follow instructions carefully, build a proper sealed gas locker for bottles, and make sure everything is installed to a professional standard.
Wood Stove in a Campervan
A small wood stove brings a vibe that’s hard to beat: silent, dry heat and proper cabin-in-the-woods energy. But it requires more space, more work, and it can affect insurance.
You also need to consider:
- Clearances to anything combustible
- A proper chimney and a sealed roof penetration
- Regular cleaning to avoid soot build-up and chimney fire risk
For some people it’s the dream. For others, it’s too many compromises.
Electric Heating in a Campervan
Electric heating is tempting because it feels “simple”. But off-grid it becomes impractical fast. Resistive electric heaters drain batteries aggressively.
It can work if you’re nearly always on campsites with shore power, but otherwise it’s rarely sustainable.
One electric option many people love is an electric blanket, because it heats you (in bed) rather than trying to heat the entire living space, and it often uses far less energy.
Hot Water in a Campervan
Hot water isn’t essential, but it can make your camper feel like a real home. Some people happily live forever with a kettle and a washing-up bowl. Others want to shower without planning their life around campsites.
Here are the most common options.
Tankless Hot Water (Instant)
A tankless heater heats water on demand. Very convenient, but safety depends entirely on the design and ventilation. Some units are made for outdoor use and should not be run inside a closed van. They’re great for quickly heating water for something like making coffee, but treat installation and ventilation seriously.
Electric Water Heater (230V)
Perfect if you’re almost always on campsites with hook-up. Less great off-grid because electric heating uses a lot of power.
On campsites, you also need to consider what the power post can supply, often 10A or 16A, i.e. about 2.3kW or 3.7kW.
Calorifier: Hot Water from the Engine Coolant System
This is a clever option if you drive often. You take heat from the engine’s coolant system and transfer it to a water tank. After about 20–30 minutes of driving, you can park up with hot water ready.
But if you’re staying parked off-grid for several days without driving, it quickly becomes less practical.
Solar Shower and Simple Solutions
A solar shower is almost ridiculously simple and yet it can work surprisingly well in warmer months. Cheap, minimal installation, and takes up very little space. The downside is obvious: it’s weather dependent and not really a year-round solution.
Do you really need a shower inside your campervan?
If you’re building a hot water system purely for showering, think carefully about how much water a shower actually uses and how much space a shower cabin steals. Many people find that a solid outdoor kitchen setup, a simple shower kit, and occasional campsite showers are the best compromise.
Shopping Shortlist (Diesel Heater)
Here’s our quick checklist for buying a diesel heater for your DIY campervan. If you’re trying to stick to a budget van conversion, prioritise the essentials first, installing the right things properly matters more than chasing fancy upgrades.
Budget essentials
- Diesel heater in the correct output range
- Mounting plate and proper gaskets
- Correct fuel line, clamps, and passthrough fittings
- Carbon monoxide alarm + smoke alarm
Best value upgrades
- Heat shielding for the exhaust system where needed
- Heater with better controls (timer, thermostat)
- Extra warm air ducting + a T-piece for more even heat
- Vibration damping for the pump (less ticking)
Winter prep focus
- Heater sized for colder climates and larger interior volume
- Insulated warm air ducting in cold spaces
- Altitude kit (or a model with altitude compensation) if you drive in the mountains
- Extra focus on ventilation to reduce condensation
FAQ – Common Questions
Are diesel heaters safe in campervans?
Yes, when installed correctly they’re generally safe because exhaust is vented outside. Always install a CO alarm and a smoke alarm.
Can you run a diesel heater overnight?
Yes, many people do. A thermostat makes it especially comfortable and stable overnight.
How much diesel does a diesel heater use per hour?
As a rough guide: around 0.3 L/h for a 2kW heater and around 0.5 L/h for a 4–5kW heater.kW.
How much electricity does it use?
Often 30–60W while running, but higher at startup. Startup can briefly draw around 8–12A.
Do I need an altitude kit?
If you regularly drive at high altitude, it’s often worth it. Without adjustment, soot can build up faster.
Where should the exhaust outlet go?
Outside the van, away from openings where fumes could be drawn in, and with good clearance to anything combustible.
Why does the pump tick so much?
It’s usually down to installation. Correct angle and vibration isolation make a big difference.
Can I use a tankless water heater inside a campervan?
Yes, but only if it’s designed for indoor installation with correct ventilation and exhaust routed outside. Outdoor-only models should not be used inside a closed van.
Want to keep reading?
- Build a campervan: https://www.camperpals.com/en/how-to-build-a-campervan/
- Internal installation: https://www.camperpals.com/en/internal-installation/
- Electrical system: https://www.camperpals.com/en/complete-campervan-electric-guide-fuses-safety/